Rabbit Care Guide For Beginners

If you are thinking of getting a pet rabbit or already have one and want to learn more about how to take care of it, this guide is for you. In this guide, I will cover various aspects of rabbit care, including what they eat, housing, health, and behavior

By the end of this guide, you will have a better understanding of what rabbits need and how to provide them with the best possible care.

Housing

Rabbits are most comfortable at temperatures between 60°F and 65°F (15°C and 18°C). This is the best comfort zone for rabbits. When you plan to set up your rabbit cage, keep in mind that the room temperature should be between 60°F to 65°F (15°C and 18°C).

Now, when you choose a cage, pen, or hutch, it should be at least 4 times bigger than their body size and 2 times taller than their height.

This means that the cage should be long enough for your rabbit to lie down comfortably, wide enough for your rabbit to turn around easily, and tall enough for your rabbit to stand up on its hind legs without hitting the top of the cage. It should also be comfortable enough for you to clean the cage easily.

For that, I recommend that every bunny parent should buy an X-pen, whether you have a baby or an adult bunny. It’s easy to clean and comfortable for rabbits to move around easily.

Use a hiding box in the cage or hutch so that your rabbit can rest or hide there. You can use a cardboard box with an entrance hole and bottom removed for that purpose.

Choose bedding materials such as hay, straw, or paper-based bedding. Avoid cedar or pine shavings as they can be harmful to your rabbits.

Also, make sure that you provide them with proper flooring. Bunnies do not have padding on the bottom of their paws. This makes them susceptible to blistering, cuts, slipping, and sliding around.

So, if you have hardwood flooring, maybe consider an area rug or a mat of some sort. If you already have carpeting, then that’s good. But if you want to bunny-proof your carpet, I still recommend putting another layer on top of it.

Learn more about rabbit housing.

Diet

Hay

The biggest portion of a rabbit’s diet is grass, followed by hay, leafy greens, and pellets. Their diet should be 80% grass, 15% vegetables, and 5% pellets.

So, if your bunnies are babies and I’m not talking newborns because obviously, they’re going to be on their mother’s milk but if your bunny is between six weeks till about six months of age, they’re going to need to be on unlimited alfalfa hay.

The reason is that alfalfa has a lot of calcium in it. It’s also a little bit fattier than the adult’s diet, so this is what the rabbit needs to grow.

If you’re dealing with an adult, so from six to eight months of age onward, you should get them onto a grass-based hay diet. This consists of Timothy hay, orchard grass, oat hay, and meadow grass. Any of those are acceptable as long as there is a high fiber content in the hay.

Fresh vegetables

Vegetables provide your rabbit with additional nutrients, water, and fiber, as well as tastes to enrich their eating experience. However, not all vegetables are safe for rabbits to eat. Some vegetables can cause digestive problems and gas.

Here is a list of safe vegetables that rabbits can consume regularly:
Cilantro 
Dill 
Rosemary Thyme
Bok choy
Kale
Arugula
Brussels sprouts
Watercress
spinach
Spring greens
Broccoli
Celery
Capsicum
Cilantro
Turnips
Turnips (both the roots and the green leaves)
All lettuces (except iceberg lettuce) such as romaine lettuce, leafy lettuce, Red and green lettuce, and butter lettuce.

Here are some vegetables that are unsafe or harmful for rabbits to eat: Rhubarb, Avocado, Potato (including potato leaves and stems), Tomato leaves and stems, Onions, Garlic, Leeks, Chives, Shallots, Beet greens, Iceberg lettuce, Beans, Cabbage (can cause gas and digestive issues).

All the vegetables I mentioned in the safe vegetable list, I also provide to my rabbit to eat. If your rabbit only eats some of the vegetables I mentioned, read this article where I explain how to introduce new vegetables to a rabbit.

pellets

Pellets are not necessary, but they are supplemental. So, they can provide some additional nutrients to the bunny that they wouldn’t get otherwise. I personally recommend that pellets should only comprise 5% of a rabbit’s diet.

Pellets should be given based on the rabbit’s size, and the recommended amount is half a cup per 5-pound rabbit. Think of them like a side dish.

Always make sure the pellets you feed your bunnies have a minimum of 18% fiber. Remember, pellets are calorie-dense and can cause weight gain and dental issues for your rabbit. So, don’t give pellets too much.

I personally use Small Pet Select Timothy pellets with 25% fiber. If you choose to go on a pellet-free diet, just make sure you’re making up for the lost calories with more leafy greens.

Fruits

Give fruits to your rabbit occasionally as a treat, such as:
apples (any variety without seeds)
cherries (any variety without the pits)
Pear
plum(without pits)
kiwi
berries (any type as long as they’re uncooked)
pineapple (make sure you’re removing the skin)
banana (make sure you remove the peel and try not to give too much banana as it is quite sweet)
melons (any type of melon without seeds)
apricot (without pits)
Strawberries
Papayas
Grapes or raisins Limit each type of food to no more than twice a week.

Cut each fruit into pieces the size of a corn kernel and serve it in a teaspoon. Discard the seeds before giving them to your rabbit.

Avoid fruits that are high in acid, such as citrus fruits, apricots, peaches, plums, mangoes, or cherries.

Herbs

Herbs are a natural and healthy way to enhance your rabbit’s diet and health. They provide your rabbit with various benefits, such as boosting their immune system, improving their digestion, or soothing their stress.

You can give your rabbit herbs such as basil, parsley, mint, oregano, thyme, or turmeric. Avoid herbs that are toxic or harmful to your rabbit, such as onion, garlic, or salt.

Water

You need to provide fresh water for your rabbit. You can use a heavy water bowl to serve the water. Also, clean the bowl every day.

Recognizing Signs of Illness in Rabbits

Rabbits are prey animals, which means they have evolved to hide their weaknesses and vulnerabilities from predators. This also means that they are very good at hiding their pain and discomfort from us, their owners. By the time you notice that something is wrong with your rabbits, it might be too late to save them.

Here are some symptoms. If you see these signs in your rabbit, take them to the vet as soon as possible.

Changes in Eating Habits: If your rabbit is not interested in their favorite food or won’t even take a treat from you, then something is very wrong. Changes in food consumption could be an indication of a health problem.

Abnormal Stool: Check your rabbit’s droppings regularly. Soft, discolored, or misshapen stool may signal gastrointestinal issues.

No pooping in 6 hours or changes in deposit consistency: a healthy bunny produces around 200-300 pellets per day. Bunny poop should be round, golden brown, and dry. Small or deformed poops, lack of poop, or runniness are something to be worried about.

Reduced activity or sitting in one place: a common observation in rabbits when they are sick is that they stay in one corner, sitting in a hunched position, and are unwilling to move.

Discharge from nose or sneezing: Discharge from the nose or sneezing in response to dust is normal. However, if it occurs more randomly, then something may be wrong.

Excessive itching: if you notice your rabbit itching more frequently, check to see if there are any small, dry, and often loosely attached pieces of skin or fur in the area where the rabbit is itching.

Lethargy and Unusual Behavior: If your bunny seems unusually quiet, withdrawn, or slow-moving, or displays changes in behavior, it’s worth investigating further.

Breathing Issues: Breathing faster than usual or experiencing noisy breathing, labored breathing, sneezing, or wheezing can be signs of respiratory problems.

Unkempt Fur and Scratching: An unkempt coat or excessive scratching might indicate skin problems or parasites.

Eye and Nose Discharge: Watery eyes, crusty discharge, or runny nose can be signs of infection or allergies.

Dental Problems: Dental issues are common in rabbits and can impact their overall health. such as overgrown teeth, difficulty eating, and drooling.

Bloated-looking belly: Swelling or bloating in the abdominal area could signal gastrointestinal issues in rabbits. Swelling or bloating in the abdominal area could signal gastrointestinal issues in rabbits.

Color Changes in Urine: Any noticeable changes in the urine color, consistency, or frequency of stool or urine, particularly normal or healthy colors such as pale yellow (indicating good health) or dark amber (indicating potential issues).

Changes in Water Consumption: A sudden increase or decrease in water intake could indicate an underlying issue.

So if you notice those signs in your rabbit, consult your vet as soon as possible.

Some Steps To Stop Those Illnesses

Maintain a Clean Environment: Keep their living space clean and dry to prevent bacterial growth and infections.

Balanced Diet: Provide a well-balanced diet, unlimited hay, fresh vegetables, and appropriate pellets to support their health.

Hydration is Key: Ensure your bunnies have access to fresh, clean water at all times.

Parasite Control: Regularly check and treat for parasites as recommended by a veterinarian.

Safe Handling Techniques For Your Rabbit

Due to their fragile bone structure, If a rabbit kicks or squirms, they can easily break their spine or neck. So, begin with your rabbit on the floor. Lift your rabbit by placing one hand beneath the chest and the other hand supporting the hind legs and hips. Bring the rabbit close to your body and firmly support the rear end.

Once you have securely picked up your rabbit, be sure that when you are placing him once again on the floor, not to allow him to jump from your arms.

Instead, lower your body slowly, still supporting him as suggested, and don’t let go until his feet touch the ground. This is so he doesn’t twist his back trying to escape.

Small children and those who do not have experience handling rabbits should not be permitted to lift them.

Spaying and Neutering

Spaying or neutering is highly recommended for every rabbit. Spaying your female rabbit reduces the risk of them getting uterine cancer. Also, the possibility of breast tumors is also reduced, and aggression is also reduced due to hormonal reasons.

Spaying helps female rabbits avoid unwanted pregnancies and also reduces the risk of reproductive cancers such as uterine cancer. A test showed that 75% of female rabbit uterine cancer occurs when they are around 7 years of age.

On the other hand, neutering reduces the risk of testicular cancer in male rabbits. Neutering involves the surgical removal of a male rabbit’s testes. It prevents male rabbits from fathering offspring.

It also reduces aggressive behavior in your rabbit, territorial marking, urine spraying, and reduces the chance of developing certain health problems such as urinary tract infections. This prevents male rabbits from fathering offspring.

The best age for spaying/neutering your rabbit is between 5 to 6 months of age, when they reach sexual maturity. Also, ensure that your rabbit is healthy enough for surgery. Unfixed (not spayed or neutered) bunny urine is full of hormones, and I found that fixed (spayed or neutered) bunnies are much less stinky.

Grooming

Proper grooming is essential for every rabbit breed. It prevents matting and hairballs in rabbits’ fur.

Although rabbits are naturally skilled at grooming themselves, they still need your help to groom them at least two times a week to remove loose fur and minimize ingestion during grooming.

Grooming frequency varies depending on the breed, such as Angoras, Lionheads, and Jersey Woolies. You can use a rabbit hair buster to groom your rabbit.

Shedding seasons, occurring approximately every three months, demand more frequent brushing to manage the excessive fur shed. Long-haired breeds like Angoras, Lionheads, and Jersey Woolies, especially need daily brushing to prevent tangling and matting.

Neglecting to groom your rabbit can cause severe health issues, such as gastrointestinal blockages from ingested fur. It’s crucial to avoid bathing rabbits as it can cause stress and potential health risks.

So, maintaining a consistent grooming routine ensures your rabbit’s coat stays clean, healthy, and free from hairballs, contributing to their overall well-being.

Nail Clipping

Every rabbit should have their nails trimmed once a month. If you do not trim your bunny’s nails, their feet can become unbalanced and lead to sore hocks and further complications.

I also trim my rabbit’s nails myself. Nail trimming is easy, but it requires a lot of patience sometimes because some bunnies don’t like it when you trim their nails.

If you have a dark-haired bunny, you may need a torch to shine through from the bottom of the nail, as it can be hard to see the quick through black nails.

If your bunny has light-colored nails, you should be able to see clear nails at the pointy end. Then, as you look further up the nail towards the toe, you will see it turn pink or skin-colored (this is the quick, if you cut it, you will get blood and upset your bunny).

So you can use cat trimmers to trim your rabbit’s nails. I also use them. Then gently place the trimmer where you think you want to cut. If it is too near the quick, they will usually pull away from you. If you do cut the quick, it will bleed quite a lot – best to avoid if possible! If you do, though, hold and apply pressure until it stops.

Bunny Proof Your Home

When it comes to personal belongings, use common sense. If you don’t want your rabbit to chew on something, don’t give them access to it. Also, keep dangerous objects out of reach.

Let’s start with walls and baseboards. This is a big issue for bunnies that like to chew against resistance. My go-to method is using shipping tape or corner guards. CNC shelving grids are popular and versatile. Wooden planks can be discreetly placed behind furniture.

Wire shelving made for closets is affordable and effective. Bitter apple spray can deter chewing, or you can make your own repellent spray with vinegar, alcohol, lime juice, and water. Keep houseplants out of reach, as many are toxic to bunnies.

Use macrame hangers and keep them away from your bunny. Finally, manage cords and cables with flex tubing or a garden hose for durability.

Note that not all these methods are guaranteed to work on all bunnies. While most are effective, monitor your rabbits with these methods first.

Playtime and Exercise

Rabbits need at least a few hours of exercise daily, either in the mornings or evenings. A bored bunny is a sad bunny, and you don’t want that, right? So, let them roam or create a play area, and watch as they perform their signature moves: the binky (a joyous jump and twist), the sprint, and the long jump.

Think of it as a mini-gym where they can hop, skip, and jump. It doesn’t have to be fancy; add some enrichment toys to keep your rabbit engaged. You can choose toys like hay balls, willow tunnels, boxes to hide in, and untreated wood or cardboard to gnaw on.

Just make sure that the place and toy are safe, secure, and free of anything that could harm your bunny.

Rabbit Basic Body Language and Behavior

Bunnies have their own unique body language to communicate their feelings and intentions to their owner, so it’s important to learn about the different body languages of your rabbits.

Loaf position

The loaf position mainly resembles a loaf of bread. This is a sign of relaxation or napping, with legs usually tucked under the body while eyes and ears remain alert.

The flop

The flop is a sign of bliss and relaxation. Legs are stretched out to the side, wide open, and in some cases, the rabbit will land on its side or its back, indicating extreme happiness.

Grooming

Grooming means the rabbit is cleaning itself, kind of like taking a shower. They’ll do this several times a day and clean their face and ears too. That’s why rabbits don’t smell bad at all.

Eating cecotropes

Bunnies eat their cecotropes, which are nutrient-packed items deposited from their bodies and are essential for good health. They kind of look like little blackberries.

Nose twitching

Nose twitching is simply a reflex, like blinking is to humans. It signals interest, curiosity, or stimulation. Very fast twitching can indicate heightened senses, lots of physical activity, or anxiety. The nose will stop wiggling on occasions when the rabbit has completely fallen asleep, or when the rabbit is ready to flee. And yes, bunnies do sleep with their eyes open sometimes.

Periscoping

Periscoping is when your bunny stands on its hind legs to get a better look at its surroundings. It just means curiosity.

Digging

Digging is an instinctual habit that resembles burrowing into the ground.

Listening

When your bunny is simply listening to its environment, it will sit there with its ears perked up and facing forward.

Nudging

Nudging occurs when your bunny wants to be petted or groomed; it means they want attention.

Grooming you

If your bunny grooms you, it’s a significant sign of respect and also means your bunny loves you.

Tooth purring

Tooth purring is the soft grinding of the teeth, indicating that your bunny is loving the way you pet them.

Zoomies

Zoomies consist of very fast laps around the room and indicate a very happy and hyper bunny.

Nipping

Nipping basically means to move over.

A sick or scared

A sick or scared bunny will be hunched over with its ears laid flat, and fear will also dilate its pupils.

Binky

A binky is a jump with a kick in the air, often accompanied by a flick of the head. This is pure and utter happiness, equivalent to a dog wagging its tail.

Territorial dropping

Territorial droppings signify that this is my area.

Thumping

When a rabbit thumps its strong hind legs against the ground, it means your bunny actually feels threatened and indicates that your bunny senses danger.

Screaming

Rabbits scream or make loud squealing noises when they are in great alarm or experiencing extreme pain.

Litter train your rabbit

Yes, just like cats and dogs, you can easily train your rabbits to use a litter box. To train your rabbits to use a litter box, you need to place a litter box in any corner of their space. Inside the litter box, put some dried grass (hay) and pellets.

First, clean the area where they pee with a tissue, and then put it inside the litter box. This helps the rabbit understand that this is where they should pee. If you follow this method for a few days, the rabbit will start using the litter box on its own and will not make a mess elsewhere.

If your rabbit pees somewhere other than the litter box, you can mix equal amounts of vinegar and water in a spray bottle and spray it there. This will eliminate any bad odor from that area. Since rabbits can smell their own scent where they pee, cleaning it with this spray will prevent them from peeing there again. Then, they will only pee in the litter box regularly.

Teaching your rabbit this may require some patience. If you follow this routine for a few weeks, you can hope that your rabbit will eventually learn to use the litter box regularly.

Pet Your Rabbit

Approach with Care

When approaching your rabbit, keep in mind their unique field of vision. Due to a blind spot right in front of their nose, it’s best to approach them from the side rather than directly from the front. This helps prevent startling them, especially if they’re not familiar with you.

Start from the Top

Begin by gently petting your rabbit on the top of its head. Most rabbits prefer this over having their chin rubbed. This basic contact helps establish trust and comfort between you and your rabbit.

Explore Preferred Petting Spots

Experiment with different petting spots to see what your rabbit enjoys. Areas such as behind the ears, cheeks, and neck. 95% of rabbits enjoy being petted in those areas.

Watch for Signs of satisfaction

As you pet your rabbit, observe for signs of satisfaction, such as tooth grinding. This behaviour, similar to a cat’s purring, indicates that your rabbit is relaxed and comfortable in your presence.

Respect Boundaries

Always respect your rabbit’s boundaries. If they show signs of discomfort or retreat, give them space and avoid overstimulation. Building a positive and trusting relationship takes time and patience.

Desensitize Sensitive Areas

Gradually desensitize your rabbit to sensitive areas, such as their tail or under their chest. With gentle and consistent handling, you can help your rabbit become more comfortable with being touched in these areas over time.

Caution with Feet

Be cautious when touching your rabbit’s feet, as they are particularly sensitive. Understand that rabbits rely on their ability to run away for defense, so approaching their feet may cause anxiety. Take it slow and be mindful of your rabbit’s comfort level.

Your rabbit might need a little time to trust you. Also, my rabbit took 2 to 3 months to trust me.

So, that’s it. I hope you understand all the basics of taking care of your rabbit now.